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Taiwan
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Taiwan is an island that feels like an entire continent in miniature, where the traditions of the East coexist with the technology of tomorrow, and the chaos of Asian megacities balances with the absolute tranquility of nature.
When Portuguese sailors first sighted Taiwan in the 16th century, they were impressed by its lush greenery and steep coastlines, giving it the poetic name โIlha Formosaโ (Beautiful Island). Since then, the name โFormosaโ was widely used in the West until the 20th century.
Taiwan has a complex history reflecting the geopolitical tensions and cultural interactions of East Asia. Initially inhabited by Austronesian peoples, the island passed through the hands of various powers โ from Dutch and Spanish colonists in the 17th century, to incorporation into the Qing dynasty of China.
In the late 19th century, it came under Japanese rule for five decades until the end of World War II. In 1949, after the civil war in China, the leadership of the Nationalist Party (Kuomintang) fled to Taiwan, establishing the Government of the Republic of China there. Since then, Taiwan has evolved into a democratic state with a strong economy, maintaining its distinct identity, although its status remains a matter of international diplomatic dispute.
Culturally it belongs to China, but it is effectively an independent state (de facto independence) not officially recognized as such by the vast majority of countries worldwide. Most nations do not maintain diplomatic recognition due to their relations with the Peopleโs Republic of China, which considers Taiwan part of its territory.
Taiwan is a technological and economic marvel. Amid neon lights and traditional temples, Japanese remnants, Chinese roots, and democratic struggles, it shapes its own unique identity.
Everyday life on the island is calm, safe, with a high standard of living and a strong sense of respect and courtesy. Taiwanese culture is a rich mosaic of influences: Chinese tradition, elements from the Japanese colonial past, Western democratic values, and the local Taiwanese identity.
For these reasons, it is not easy to classify this country that combines elements of the Far East and Southeast Asia, urban and natural environments.
Behind the image of a developed island with infrastructure and technology lies natureโdense, green, often shrouded in mist. The mountains covering most of the island, the coastal villages, street food markets, temples with their colors standing out against the urban gray. Temples are omnipresent, whether grand complexes with colorful roofs, elaborate dragon carvings, and heavily โloadedโ decorations, or small shrines tucked into street corners or even inside shops.
Taiwan is one of the most religiously vibrant places in Asia, where deities coexist harmoniously. Without an official religion and with guaranteed freedom of faith, the people follow religious practices that include Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and elements of popular Chinese religion.
People
The people of Taiwan are perhaps the islandโs most remarkable highlight. Warm, friendly, and discreet, they combine traditional values with a modern way of life. Although culturally tied to China, they have shaped a unique identity that reflects their historical journey and democratic culture. Hospitality is genuine and spontaneous โ from the owner of a small shop to a random passerby who will kindly offer guidance. Taiwanese people stand out for their politeness, dignity, respect for rules, cleanliness, and sense of social harmony. At the same time, there is a strong youthful energy, cultural expression, and a sense of freedom.
Religion
Although officially a secular state, most Taiwanese do not adhere strictly to one religion but instead follow a blend of spiritual traditions that include Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism, merged into a shared practice.
Taoism is a religious-philosophical tradition that has shaped Chinese life for more than 2,000 years.
Core Principles of Taoism:
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Tao: The cosmic principle, the invisible force that governs nature, humans, and the universe.
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Te: โVirtue,โ the natural power one gains when living in harmony with the Tao.
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Wu Wei: Spontaneous action without force. It does not mean laziness, but rather flowing with the natural order of things.
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Yin and Yang: The two complementary forces of the universe โ dark and light, feminine and masculine, passive and active – not in opposition, but in cooperation.
Taoism is not a rigid religion with dogma. It is a way of life characterized by gratitude for simple things, simplicity, unity with the surrounding world. In a broader sense, a Taoist mindset embraces acceptance, flexibility, and the carefree aspects of human nature โ a balance to the moral duty emphasized in Confucianism. Taoism also maintains a positive attitude toward mysticism and the metaphysical (theories about the nature of reality).
Behind all forms of Taoism stands the figure of Laozi (Lao Tzu), traditionally considered the author of the classic text known as the Tao Te Ching (โThe Book of the Way and Its Powerโ).
Places
Here is the English translation, preserving the structure and paragraphing exactly as requested:
Taiwan, although small in size, displays great geographical and cultural diversity. The capital, Taipei, in the northern part, is the heartbeat of the country โ a modern metropolis with tall buildings like the iconic Taipei 101, the National Palace Museum, the hot springs of Beitou, bustling markets, vibrant nightlife, and countless traditional temples scattered throughout every neighborhood.
In the northern part of the island, one also finds picturesque places such as Jiufen and the Pingxi area, with historic alleys, teahouses, and views of the mountains and the sea. Keelung, with its port and night market, is a gastronomic destination.
Traveling south, we find Kaohsiung. The Love River and the spirituality of the Fo Guang Shan Monastery make the city stand out.
On the central-west side lies Taichung, the second-largest city by population and a place of art and creativity. There, one finds the Rainbow Village and the National Opera House.
Tainan is the oldest city in Taiwan, with traditional temples, castles, and tastes rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.
On the eastern coast, Hualien offers a feast of nature. The impressive Taroko Gorge is one of the islandโs greatest natural treasures.
Sun Moon Lake, with its serene waters and the religious temples surrounding it, is ideal for cycling or boating.
At the southernmost tip of Taiwan lies Kenting National Park, with tropical beaches, coral reefs, and ideal conditions for water sports.
Taiwan also includes smaller islands such as the Penghu Islands with their volcanic rock formations, Green Island – a diverโs paradise, and Orchid Island (Lanyu), which offers an experience of the indigenous Tao culture.
Between two worlds
May 2024
After yet another exciting group trip we organized with Planet Voyagers in Japan, we continue with an individual trip to Taiwan lasting about a week, during which we will need to work online for a few hours each day. After Taiwan, our journey will continue to Shanghai, China.
Taiwan was never one of my top choices, perhaps because it doesnโt promise the things people usually seek from an Asian trip. However, my first impression of Taiwan is captivating. Neighborhoods with a strong Chinese atmosphere, where the traditional and the modern blend in an exotically harmonious way. We choose to stay in the Ximending area, an โalternativeโ neighborhood, surrounded by neon lights, manga stores, street food, but also narrow alleyways with a traditional style. This is where the heart of Taipei beats, and it will be our base for exploring the surrounding areas.
Taipei
Taipei is a city that feels like a stage set, where modernity and tradition alternate with one another.
In Ximending is also located the Red House Theater, also known as the Red Building. It was established in 1908, during the period of Japanese occupation, initially as a market. Its architecture combines Western elements with Japanese style. After 1945 it was converted into an Opera Theater, and in the 1960s it served as a cinema. In 2000, a fire destroyed part of the building, and since 2007 it has reopened as a multifunctional cultural space.
Taipei Temples
Spirituality in Taiwan is part of daily life, embedded in the peopleโs habits. In Taipei, templesโboth small and largeโare active religious centers, with incense burning continuously, worshippers whispering prayers in front of statues, and young people calling upon deities for guidance.
The first encounter is at Tianhou Temple, dedicated to Mazu, the sea goddess and protector of sailors. It is a small but atmospheric temple, hidden in an alley within the urban fabric of Ximending. Here, faith is intertwined with Taiwanโs history as an island nation, and the rituals carry a familial character.
On the outskirts of the city, in the Songshan District, where the urban landscape suddenly gives way to dense tropical nature, lie two more important temples.
The wooden Songshan Ci Hui Temple is a mythical sanctuary for Taoist deities, a kind of Mecca for Taoists, and an intriguing place well worth visiting. Covering an area of around 33,000 square meters, this towering temple consists of a cluster of intricately structured five-story buildings framed by imposing pagodas. The courtyard outside the central hall on the templeโs second floor offers panoramic views of central Taipei. The statue of the โJade Emperorโ stands atop a Chinese pantheon. His birthday is celebrated on the 9th day of the 1st lunar month, drawing worshippers from across the country for pilgrimage. The templeโs architecture follows the classic Southern Chinese style, filled with countless wooden carvings of dragons and scenes from famous folk tales.
Very nearby, the Songshan Feng Tian Gong, lesser known and almost empty of visitors, is commonly referred to as the โTemple of Heaven,โ and enshrines the Heavenly Emperor as its principal deity. With an area of more than 3,300 square meters, the space can accommodate over a thousand worshippers. The carved wooden decoration covering the interior of the temple is exceptionally elaborate, with astonishing detail.
Above Ci Hui Temple, the Hushan Hiking Trail offers a different kind of urban experience: a short climb through Taiwanโs lush nature, with panoramic views of Taipei and Taipei 101 rising in the distance. The trail is not particularly demanding but includes quite a few stairs, warmth, and humidity, in a setting of dense jungle, with bamboo and other tall trees.
Longshan Temple, perhaps the most well-known temple in the city, combines Buddhist and Taoist elements, with dozens of deities and rich decoration. Despite the crowds, it retains a strong sense of reverence and focus. The temple was built in 1740, during the Qing dynasty. Due to natural disasters and damage, it has been restored several times. The temple features exquisite wood carvings, including the well and the Buddhaโs scene in the main hall. Many Chinese poems are inscribed on plaques throughout the temple, adding a touch of literature alongside its religious significance.
Among the historic landmarks of Taipei, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall stands out, dedicated to the former president of the Republic of China, Chiang Kai-shek. The imposing building is constructed from white marble and is topped with a distinctive blue octagonal roof, which refers to the symbol of eternity in Chinese tradition. The 89 steps leading to the main hall symbolize the age of the leader at the time of his death. Since its inauguration in 1980, the monument has gradually transformed from a space of personality cult and historical memory.
The Taipei 101 skyscraper is perhaps the most iconic modern landmark of Taiwan, symbolizing its technological and economic development. Until 2009, it held the title of the tallest building in the world, standing at 508 meters with 101 floors, from which it takes its name.
Its design is inspired by the traditional shape of bamboo, a symbol of strength and resilience in Chinese culture. The architecture combines modern technology with feng shui elements, and it is equipped with a massive 660-ton tuned mass damper that reduces the buildingโs oscillations during earthquakes or strong winds.
Visiting the Taipei 101 observatory (on floors 89โ91) offers a panoramic view of the city, especially impressive at sunset. The ticket costs around โฌ18, and we chose not to visit as we had seen many similar viewpoints in Japan. The lower floors house luxury shops, restaurants, and cafes, while the upper floors serve as offices for companies.
In Taipei, the night markets are also of interest, such as Huaxi Street Night Market, Shilin Night Market, as well as the daytime local markets like Yongle Market.
Northeast Taiwan
In the next few days, we decide to leave the capital and explore some other parts of the island on day trips. Our first destination is the eastern coast, which we will reach by bus.
Jiufen is a traditional mountain village in northeastern Taiwan, about two hours from Taipei, and is one of the islandโs most atmospheric and romantic destinations. Built on the slopes of a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Jiufen is famous for its narrow cobblestone streets, traditional teahouses, illuminated lanterns, and exotic atmosphere.
Jiufen Old Street, the villageโs most famous street, is a colorful and lively market with dozens of stalls offering traditional Taiwanese snacks, sweets, drinks, souvenirs, and local products. Here, one can try among other things the famous taro balls (considered a dessert), crepes with ice cream and peanuts, herbal soups, and other unusual delicacies.
Jiufen has become especially associated with the animated film โSpirited Awayโ by Studio Ghibli; the nighttime scene with red lanterns and multi-level traditional buildings creates that fairy-tale feeling.
Beyond the market, there are scenic hiking trails, small museums, as well as historic buildings that tell the story of the Japanese occupation era and the regionโs prosperity due to gold mines.
Personally, I found Jiufen quite touristy.
The Zhengbin Port Color Houses, located in the area of the same name, were built by the Japanese in 1934 and was the largest fishing port in Taiwan during the colonial period.
Its main feature is the colorful houses, about 16 multi-story buildings painted in bright and pastel colors a few years ago. The reflection of the colors on the water, especially when lit by the sun, creates a scene reminiscent of Italian lakes, often compared to Burano or Cinque Terre. Around there are small cafes and seafood restaurants. I canโt say I found it particularly impressive.
The Keelung Miaokou Night Market is one of the most famous night bazaars in northern Taiwan. It operates from sunset until early morning. Seafood dominates Miaokouโs street food, such as crab soup, fried fish tempura (Tianbula), and oyster omelette.
Another signature dish is the Nutritious Sandwich, with crispy fried bread filled with ham, marinated egg, tomato, and cucumber.
People gather around the stalls, smells and lights fill every corner, while signage in English, Japanese, and Chinese facilitates visitors.
ฮคaichung
One of the next days, we head by train to the southwestern coast and the city of Taichung. Taichung is the second largest city in Taiwan, with about 2.8 million inhabitants. It was built to become the new capital of Taiwan Province and was renamed โTaiwan-fuโ in the late Qing dynasty between 1887 and 1894. The urban planning of present-day Taichung was carried out and developed by the Japanese during their rule, after 1895.
The city hosts the National Museum of Natural Science, the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts, the National Theater, the National Taiwan Comics Museum, as well as many temples.
Rainbow Village is a former military settlement transformed by a retired soldier known as โGrandpa Rainbow,โ who began painting it in 2008 to save it from demolition. The walls and alleys were filled with colorful birds, animals, and abstract figures, creating a lively open-air art museum. The artworks are supported by students and public bodies, while entrance is free. Interaction with the creator himself, when present, adds a human dimension.
Miyahara Confectionery, located in the center of Taichung, is housed in an impressive 1927 building, a former ophthalmology clinic from the Japanese occupation, renovated into a confectionery complex in 2012. Here you can find chocolates, traditional cakes, and ice cream with dozens of unique flavors (such as black tea and kumquat lime). The atmosphere evokesโฆ Hogwarts, with tall wooden shelves, vintage lighting, marble floors, almost theatrical scenery. On the second floor is the Moon Pavilion restaurant, with a Michelin rating.
Despite my initial enthusiasm for Taipei, the other places I visited on the island did not excite me; I found them boring. Taiwan is a country โcaught between two worlds,โ between East and West, between independence and international recognition as a state, between tradition and modernization, between Chinese cultural heritage and the Western way of life.
In any case, this place presents a unique interest, completing an integral piece of the diverse puzzle for every traveler in the Far East.
