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Togo
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Togo, a small and narrow strip of land in West Africa between Ghana and Benin, may not often be in the spotlight, yet it holds a complex history and a culture with deep roots. From the era of ancient kingdoms and thriving trade routes through the African interior, to the period of European colonization, Togo has long stood at the crossroads of cultural exchange. Initially a German colony in the late 19th century, it came under French rule after World War I and gained independence in 1960.
Its post-colonial history has been marked by political instability and centralized power. Gnassingbรฉ Eyadรฉma ruled the country almost uninterruptedly from 1967 until his death in 2005, succeeded by his son, forming one of Africaโs longest-standing political dynasties. Despite promises of reform, the political landscape remains tightly controlled, with frequent tensions around elections and freedom of expression. Still, everyday life in Togo is characterized by resilience, vibrant cultural expression, and a deep spirituality that connects people to their land, community, and heritage.
People
Togo is home to more than 40 ethnic groups, with the Ewe people in the south and the Kabye in the north being the largest. Traditions, languages, and ceremonies vary widely from region to region, shaping a rich cultural identity. Though small in size, the countryโs cultural diversity is striking. Communities are strongly family-oriented, with clan and tribal bonds playing a key role in social life, and traditional leaders still holding influence at the local level.
Daily life is closely tied to music, dance, and oral storytelling. Women play an active role in local economies and society, while crafts, fabric dyeing, and open-air markets keep ancestral aesthetics and energy alive. Despite economic hardship, Togolese people are known for their politeness, hospitality, and remarkable adaptability.
Religions
Togoโs religious identity is rich and layered. While around half of the population identifies as Christian โmostly Catholic and Protestantโ and a significant portion as Muslim, the core of Togolese spirituality remains deeply rooted in traditional African religions. Animism and ancestor worship continue to shape daily life, whether in standalone rituals or in syncretic harmony with monotheistic faiths.
Voodoo, often associated with the African diaspora in the Americas, has its roots precisely in this region. Ceremonies, amulets, spiritual leaders, and community rituals are active parts of life, and belief in the unseen connections between the living and the dead remains central to the Togolese worldview. This multilayered spirituality gives Togoโs culture a mystical depth, profoundly linked to nature and ancestral memory.
Places
Togo stretches from the Atlantic Ocean in the south to the fringes of the Sahel in the north, offering a landscape full of contrast, natural beauty, and cultural depth. In the south lies Lomรฉ, the capital and largest city, where colonial-era buildings, bustling markets, and a dynamic cultural scene meet the sea. Lomรฉ serves as the countryโs main gateway to the world, blending urban energy with traditional rhythms.
Moving inland, visitors encounter the green hills of the Togo Mountains, dotted with villages and waterfalls, and the city of Kpalimรฉ, a center of Ewe culture and artisanal life. Central Togo is marked by open plains and farmlands, while the north becomes drier and more savannah-like, home to the culturally distinct Kabye people with their own rituals and way of life. Though lesser known on the tourist map, Togo offers authentic experiences, far from mass tourism, with landscapes and people who remain genuine, warm, and deeply rooted in their land.
A miniature of West Africa
December ย 2023
Togo is the country in between, the middle leg of a journey that started in Benin and will continue into Ghana. It is usually combined with Benin, as the two countries share many geographical and cultural similarities. Since my travel companion and I had already explored a large part of Benin, from the coast to the north, we decided not to dedicate more than two or three days to this small country, which promised familiar and somewhat similar experiences.
What will eventually mark our visit is an adventure involving the authorities, concerning the legality of our entry, a story that doesnโt need to be elaborated here.
The southern coastal stretch of the country, from the border with Benin to the border with Ghana, spans only 50 kilometers. At the western edge, touching the border with Ghana, lies the capital Lomรฉ. Despite the general similarities with Benin, the two capitals are aesthetically much further apart than they are geographically. Unlike generally โorderlyโ Cotonou (officially, Porto-Novo is Beninโs capital, but Cotonou is its real administrative center), Lomรฉ is chaotic, dusty, and congested. In other words, it fits the typical image of a West African capital. Wandering through the city is neither easy nor particularly pleasant. Lomรฉ is a major port, which results in heavy truck traffic carrying goods to and from the loading docks. Walking under the intense heat, through exhaust fumes and the dust raised by the passing vehicles, is far from an enjoyable experience.
There are no cafรฉs or restaurants in the city center where one might take a break, yet the walk offers a meaningful interaction with the local population, who are remarkably friendly, smiling, and slightly puzzled by the presence of white travelers strolling aimlessly down the street. I imagine that some might choose Lomรฉ as their entry point into West Africa and consider the potential shock โ or even disappointment. Fortunately, the wider area has plenty of places of interest to make up for it. Among other things, today we decide to visit the famous voodoo market. Riding two moto-taxis, we manage to survive the chaotic roads and reach the market.
In the outskirts of Lomรฉ lies the famed Marchรฉ des Fรฉtiches. Thereโs nothing particularly impressive here โ just wooden stalls displaying monkey skulls, bones and feathers of wild animals, snakes, and other remains. The market supposedly functions as a healing center for those seeking remedies through the spiritual forces of nature, but to me, it felt like a crude tourist trap. The open-air market requires an entrance fee of 3,000 CFA francs (about โฌ4.5), plus another 2,000 CFA for taking photos. The total amount, around โฌ7.5, isnโt outrageous, but I find it outrageous to financially or ethically support the killing of these unfortunate animals. I manage to take a few pictures from outside before the โvendorsโ notice and start yelling, even threatening me, which I promptly ignore.
The accommodation we had booked online ended up being quite far from Lomรฉ, and I was initially frustrated by our poor planning. But it turned out to be a real oasis compared to the chaos of the city โ a clean room in a quiet neighborhood with access to a beautiful beach lined with palm trees. In that quiet place, I didnโt expect to find food, but to our great surprise, a beachside restaurant was open โ under the palms, lit by the stunning hues of sunset, with us as the only guests.
In the heart of Lomรฉ lies the Central Market, a maze of stalls, noise, colors, and aromas that reflects the pulse of everyday life in Togo. Here, trade is not only an economic activity but also a form of social interaction.
The market has everything, as is typical for open-air African markets, from fresh fruit and local spices to batik fabrics, handmade accessories, footwear, herbal medicines, and voodoo items.
Togo is not a place that impresses with monuments or shouts for attention through its attractions. Togo leaves the traveler with a sense of familiarity, like something youโve seen before, yet at the same time completely new.
But thatโs Africa in general. In Africa (with a few exceptions), you donโt come for monuments, archaeological sites, masterpieces of art, entertainment, or gourmet food.
You come to Africa for the magic, the one that spells every neighborhood in everyday moments, a magic not caused by voodoo rituals but by the souls of its people.
ยฉ Alexandros Tsoutis
