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Ghana
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Ghana is a country in West Africa bordered by the Gulf of Guinea. It boasts a rich cultural heritage, social interest, and natural beauty, often referred to as the “Gateway to West Africa.” From the bustling streets of Accra to the historic landmarks of Cape Coast and Elmina, Ghana offers a captivating blend of tradition and modernity.
The history of Ghana dates back to the Paleolithic era. One of the earliest known civilizations in the region was the Ghana Empire, which flourished between the 8th and 11th centuries in present-day southeastern Mauritania and western Mali, playing a significant role as a major trading hub.
In the 15th century, European explorers reached the West African coast in search of new trade routes, marking the beginning of European colonization in the region. The Portuguese, Dutch, British, and others established trading forts and posts along the coast. Among other things, they developed the abhorrent activity of the slave trade, where millions of Africans were forcibly transported to the Americas as slaves. This had devastating effects on the people of Ghana and the wider region.
By the 19th century, the area now known as Ghana was referred to as the Gold Coast due to its abundant gold reserves. The British gradually extended their control, establishing a colonial administration and exploiting the regionโs resources for their own profit. The Gold Coast became a major exporter of gold, cocoa, and other goods.
The quest for independence gained momentum in the 20th century, fueled by anti-colonial movements. The struggle was led by visionary leaders such as Kwame Nkrumah, who became the countryโs first Prime Minister and later its first President. In 1957, Ghana became the first sub-Saharan African nation to gain independence from colonial rule, setting a precedent for decolonization movements across the continent.
In the decades following independence, Ghana faced many challenges, including political instability, economic difficulties, and social unrest. However, the country also made significant strides in education, healthcare, and infrastructure development. Ghana has emerged as a beacon of democracy in Africa, with regular elections and peaceful transitions of power.
Today, Ghana stands as a testament to the resilience, determination, and enduring spirit of its people and their commitment to progress.
People
Ghanaians, despite religious and cultural differences, are known for their hospitality, smiles, and sociability, making Ghana a welcoming destination for visitors. The most widely spoken local language in Ghana is Twi, especially in the southern regions, followed by others such as Ewe and Ga. English is also widely spoken, making communication easy.
Places
The capital Accra is a city of contrasts, where modern glass buildings and international brand shops coexist with shacks, poverty, and chaotic traffic.
From the bustling Makola markets to the Labadi beach coast, Accra reflects the countryโs diversity.
The Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum pays tribute to Ghanaโs first President and symbolizes the nationโs independence.
West along Ghanaโs coastline lies Cape Coast and Elmina with their eponymous castles, cities full of history and the dark legacy of the slave trade. These UNESCO World Heritage Sites are reminders of the horrors of the past and the resilience of the human spirit.
The Kakum National Park hosts an impressive ecosystem with dense tropical rainforest, ideal for nature lovers.
The Gateway to West Africa
December 2023
After a delightful tour in Benin and a hectic adventure in Togo, we finally cross the border into Ghana. The border officers are extremely polite, but the entry procedures are typically time-consuming and bureaucratic. After currency exchange, we search for public transport. But we don’t want to go to the capital Accra; we want to start our journey in the west of the country, specifically Cape Coast. The map shows the distance is 6.5 to 7 hours, which is disappointing after all our travel fatigue. Even more disappointing is the fact that no direct vehicle goes the whole wayโeverything goes to Accra. After a long search in this hot, dusty, and noisy area, a helpful local finds a minivan going even further west, to Takoradi. We buy two tickets and wait. As is common in Africa, public minibuses wait to fill up before departing. After nearly two hours, weโre still short three passengers. Negotiating to buy extra seats fails. I’m used to African rhythms and wait patiently, but my travel companion is not willing to wait. The tickets are non-refundable, but I manage to return both and get a refund for one. We find a makeshift taxi leaving immediately for Accra and negotiate a good price. After 4 hours, we arrive at night in the capital, having crossed most of the cityโs congested roads. The driver drops us in a central area, but the Cape Coast bus departs from another part of town. A disagreement arises over our deal, but I let it go and agree to be taken to the departure point. My mistake was not clarifying the extra cost. The distance is less than a kilometer and the driver demands an outrageous amountโalmost the same as for the 200 km ride. I start arguing and refuse to pay, but my companion disagrees with me, saying I shouldn’t get upset over 2โ3 euros. The vehicles and roads are generally more comfortable than in other parts of Africa, and I’m not too worn out. We arrive in Cape Coast at 1:00 am, and I had arranged for a taxi to wait at the bus station, but the vehicle passes right by our hotel.
The accommodation is very satisfactory by African standards, although my travel companion protests because… the Wi-Fi doesnโt reach the room.
In the morning, we explore the city. The localsโ smiles are spontaneous and warm, and English makes interaction easy. But the weather is even warmer, and once the sun rises fully, the heat becomes unbearable. On this leg of my continuous travels in Africa, I shed copious sweat. Walking through the town with its old buildingsโcombining classic mansion architecture and decayโis charming. Interacting with kind locals and the photo opportunities they gladly offer make the stay delightful.
Cape Coast
Along Ghanaโs coastline lie two historic sitesโCape Coast and Elmina.
The iconic Cape Coast Castle, built by Europeans in the 17th century, is a painful reminder of the slave trade, having served as a hub for the brutal human trafficking. Elmina Castle, built by the Portuguese in the 15th century, originally served as a trading post for gold and ivory, but later also bore witness to the horrors of slavery.
Elmina
Not far from Cape Coast lies Elmina, another seaside town with a rich history. Elmina Castle, the oldest European structure in sub-Saharan Africa, stands as a testament to the regionโs turbulent past. Built by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the castle served as a key trading post for gold, ivory, and later, African slaves.
Like its counterpart in Cape Coast, Elmina Castle is a witness to the horrors of the transatlantic slave trade, with its dungeons and the โDoor of No Returnโ serving as powerful reminders of the inhumanity imposed on millions.
Yet, within its grim history, Elmina exudes a strange charm. The townโs fishing community offers a glimpse into traditional Ghanaian life, with colorful fishing boats scattered along the shoreline and fishermen carrying in their daily catch.
