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Japan
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Japan is a destination that invites exploration, a micro-universe where \ past meets the future. From the historic streets of Kyoto, where centuries-old monuments reveal a rich cultural heritage, to the neon-lit vibrancy of modern Tokyo, the Land of the Rising Sun captivates with its contrasts. As you wander through charming alleys, you can savor authentic Japanese cuisine, admire beautiful gardens, and meet polite, welcoming people. Japan promises a unique travel experience, where every corner holds a surprise.
๐ In this country, tradition and modern technology coexist. Japan has a long history spanning thousands of years, with settlements dating back to the Stone Age, and a culture influenced by China and Korea. The era of the samurai and shoguns (12thโ19th century) shaped Japanese society with strict Bushido codes. Later, Japan closed its borders for over 200 years until the Meiji period (1868), when rapid modernization began. After World War II, Japan became one of the most technologically and economically advanced nations in the world.
๐ธ๐ ๐
People
The Japanese are known for exemplary politeness, diligence, and a strong sense of community. Their lifestyle and behavior are shaped by tradition, modern technology, and social values.
Politeness and etiquette are fundamental in daily lifeโfrom bowing to using respectful language. Society prioritizes the common good, valuing cooperation over individuality. Japanese devotion to work and pursuit of perfection is evident in every field, from traditional arts to technology. Displaying wealth is avoided, while calm, discreet behavior is considered virtuous.
Omotenashi: The Japanese concept of hospitality emphasizes attention to detail and offering help without expecting anything in return.
Giri & Ninjล: โGiriโ represents a sense of duty and obligation to others, while โNinjลโ reflects human compassion and emotional understanding.
The Japanese are friendly yet respect personal space, avoiding intrusive questions or overt emotional displays in public. While work is important, hobbies like anime, manga, gaming, travel, and nature are cherished. A deep connection with nature is evident in their reverence for cherry blossoms (sakura), Japanese gardens, and traditional homes integrated into the landscape.
Most Japanese don’t identify as โreligiousโ but participate in religious practices as part of tradition, culture, and family life. Shintoism and Buddhism are the main religions, coexisting harmoniously for centuries. Shinto is Japanโs indigenous faith, linked to nature, spirituality, and local communities, centered on worship of kamiโspiritual entities inhabiting natural elements, landscapes, ancestors, and historical figures. Shinto shrines (jinja) are scattered throughout the country, serving as places for prayer, purification, and celebrations of important events.
Buddhism, introduced from Korea and China in the 6th century, was supported by the imperial court. Various schools flourished in Japan, including Pure Land (Jลdo), Zen, and Nichiren Buddhism, focusing on rituals related to death and the afterlife while promoting compassion, meditation, and spiritual practice.
Places
Japan is a mosaic of old and new ๐ฏ๐.
Kyoto, the heart of traditional Japan, invites visitors to stroll along historic streets lined with ancient temples and serene gardens. The iconic Golden Pavilion reflects the tranquility of its surroundings. Attending a traditional tea ceremony offers insight into the refined art of Japanese culture.
In contrast, Tokyo is a futuristic metropolis full of energy and innovation. Neon-lit streets in Shibuya and Shinjuku showcase Japanโs technological prowess. In bustling markets like Tsukiji, visitors can savor culinary delights such as ramen and sushi or explore the quirky streets of Harajuku.
Beyond the busy cities, Japan boasts stunning natural beauty. The tranquil landscapes of Hokkaido, the majestic Japanese Alps, and the picturesque coastal towns of Okinawa offer endless travel experiences.
Peculiar customs of Japan
ฮฮฏฮฝฮฑฮน ฮดฯฯฮบฮฟฮปฮฟ ฮฝฮฑ ฮฑฯฮฑฯฮนฮธฮผฮฎฯฮตฮน ฮบฮฑฮน ฮฝฮฑ ฮบฮฑฯฮฑฮฝฮฟฮฎฯฮตฮน ฮบฮฑฮฝฮตฮฏฯ ฯฮนฯ ฮบฮฑฮธฮทฮผฮตฯฮนฮฝฮญฯ ฯฯ ฮฝฮฎฮธฮตฮนฮตฯ ฯฯฮฝ ฮฮฑฯฯฮฝฯฮฝ. ฮฮฑ ฯฯฮฟฯฯฮฑฮธฮฎฯฯ ฮฝฮฑ ฯฮฑฯฮฟฯ ฯฮนฮฌฯฯ ฮบฮฌฯฮฟฮนฮตฯ ฮฑฯฯ ฮฑฯ ฯฮญฯ ฯฮฟฯ ฮญฯฯ ฮณฮฝฯฯฮฏฯฮตฮน.
Toilets
Toilets in Japan are aโฆ special attraction. It goes without saying that they are all spotlessly clean, even public toilets present a clinical picture of disinfection and in many cases consist of a spacious room with many amenities from disabled facilities to baby changing tables. The most characteristic peculiarity, however, is another. The basins in all toilets in the country are full of automation and electrical functions. The seat is heated and there are always disinfectant products for it. On the sides there are various buttons, the main function of which is to spray lukewarm water to wash sensitive areas. There are usually separate buttons that target the areas needed by women, as well as for the rear area. Sometimes there is a hot air drying function. Another button that is encountered less often, plays sounds of running water, covering the natural sounds of the human process. The cistern usually also presents some peculiarity, as it has a small tap in which the user can rinse his hands while the tank is being filled.
Smoking
An strange peculiarity is that smoking is not allowed on the street, except in designated areas. This would not be at all paradoxical, but one is surprised that at the same time smoking is allowed in restaurants, bars and hotels, which is not very pleasant for non-smokers.
Apart from cigarettes, it is disrespectful to eat while walking on the street. In street food markets, everyone eats at a fixed point without disturbing the crowds of their fellow citizens. There are also no trash cans on the streets. It is very difficult to find places to get rid of some trash and the only hope is to give it to a willing store employee. It is said that the cans were removed a few decades ago, when there were bomb attacks with explosives placed in them.
Modernization and anachronism
Although it is an ultra-modern country, the Japanese persist in some anachronistic habits.
Credit cards are not very widespread. In small restaurants and shops, only cash is accepted.
Fax has not only not been withdrawn from circulation, but is a main method of remote communication.
In defiance of the times and the Internet era, there are still DVD clubs that rent films and are large stores that can be found everywhere. They have a section with erotic films, which by law have the genitals covered with mosaics.
The Japanese love claw games where you claim a stuffed animal or a ball with a small gift. There are large stores everywhere with such games, as well as video games.
Entertainment centers with young employees who offer company are also widespread. Young girls dressed in fancy schoolgirl uniforms work as โbarkersโ on the streets of Tokyo and are annoyed if you take their pictures.
The Japanese are not an openly erotic people and do not indulge in affairs in public places. However, there are many half-board hotels, where couples of all ages meet discreetly. These accommodations are cheaper than regular hotels and very spacious, usually decorated with kitsch themed decor, with themes such as space and planets, comics, etc. They also have gaming machines, karaoke systems, and sex toys.
Railways & transportation
Of course, as in other civilized countries, it is disrespectful to talk on a cell phone in the subway and other means of transportation. It is incomprehensible, however, that subway stations often don’t have facilities such as escalators and elevators are rare, making it difficult for people with disabilities and all citizens carrying luggage to move around.
Traffic rules are exemplary, drivers and pedestrians follow the rules and no one dares to break them. It goes without saying that no pedestrian breaks the red light at crosswalks. Cyclists are a little more dangerous, moving at speed, surprising the uninitiated visitor.
Japan has one of the most advanced, reliable and fast transportation systems in the world, with an emphasis on trains and especially on Shinkansen (high-speed trains), which are a symbol of technology and speed in the country.
Japanโs rail network covers the entire country and offers a variety of options, from local trains to the famous Shinkansen. Shinkansen, also known as โbullet trains,โ connect major cities such as Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Hiroshima, reaching speeds of up to 200 miles per hour. The Shinkansen network is extremely safe and punctual, with trains departing and arriving on time, with deviations usually no more than a few seconds.
Major cities such as Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya have extensive subway systems that connect to the local rail network, making it easy to get around the city. The Tokyo subway is one of the largest and densest in the world, with two main networks: the Tokyo Metro and the Toei Subway. Despite its complexity, the subway is extremely well organized, and passengers can rely on English maps and signs.
The largest railway company is Japan Railways (JR), which operates both the Shinkansen and most local and regional trains. However, there are many private railway companies that cover specific areas and destinations.
The use of IC cards (such as Suica and Pasmo) is widespread in Japan and facilitates access to trains, subways and buses, offering contactless payment. These cards can also be loaded and used in shops or vending machines.
An important practical and economical convenience in the past was the Japan Rail Pass, which offers (exclusively for foreign visitors) unlimited access to the JR train network for a period of 7, 14 or 21 days. However, in 2023 its price almost doubled, making it perhaps unprofitable to purchase.
Buses are also an important part of transportation, especially in remote areas or smaller cities. In cities like Hiroshima, the tram remains popular and acts as an alternative to the subway.
A characteristic of Japanese transportation is the courtesy and service provided to passengers. Station and train workers are always willing to help, and in the carriages, passengers are kept exemplary quiet and respectful of fellow passengers. And while everyone is glued to their mobile screens or listening to music, no one talks on the phone, which is considered very rude.
Accommodation
In a country where space – especially in big cities – is so limited and so expensive, it is only natural that hotel rooms are usually very small, but very ergonomically designed.
Capsule hotels are a unique type of accommodation that originated in Japan and offer travelers a practical and affordable way to stay, especially in large cities. Instead of traditional rooms, guests are accommodated in small, self-contained bunk beds, not necessarily in capsule form. The chambers are usually about two meters long and one meter wide and high. They are enough for an adult to sleep comfortably, but without the space offered by a regular room. The interior includes a mattress, light, power outlets and sometimes a small television or radio. They are popular because of their relatively low prices, which make them ideal for travelers on a budget or for professionals who need to stay for one night. Bathrooms, toilets and relaxation areas are shared and feature amenities such as showers, saunas and massage chairs. Capsule hotels have shared lockers or storage areas for luggage. Although capsules are not rooms with doors, they do have curtains or sliding doors for each guestโs privacy. However, the spaces are small and it can take time to adjust to the limited space.
A special and authentic category of accommodation in Japan, it offers guests the opportunity to sleep on traditional Japanese futons on the floor, instead of the classic Western-style bed. Usually the floor is heated and covered with tatami, Japanese mats made of rice straw, with a tight weave. They have a mild aroma that lends a natural atmosphere and a sense of peace to the space.
Visitors remove their shoes at the entrance and wear special slippers, or go barefoot to keep the tatami clean.
Ryokan / Onsen
Like jjimjilbangs in Korea, Japanese onsen hot springs are a popular social practice in the local culture. Public baths have separate areas for men and women, but there are also a few common ones, such as an outdoor one we visited in Beppu.
Perhaps the most uncomfortable part of the experience for many is appearing naked in front of strangers, as the rule of onsen is to dress naked.
A basic rule for the baths is that a cleansing shower is required beforehand. There are rows of standing showers as well as seated ones with plastic stools where people can rest their buttocks without worrying about skin diseases. The other special fact, as in Korea, is the admittedly tiny size of the reproductive system of the majority of the men present, which combined with the forested hair of the area makes thingsโฆ invisible.
Many hotels have their own baths, but ryokan are the most traditional accommodations with a private onsen, offering a truly enjoyable experience. They are generally expensive but include a full meal package.
Half-stay hotels in Japan, known as love hotels (ใฉใใใใซ), offer accommodation for a few hours or for the whole night. Love hotels have their own special place in Japanese culture, providing guests with a discreet and comfortable place for private moments. However, they are not limited to this use, as they are also an affordable option for those who need temporary rest or want to live a special and economical accommodation experience. Many rooms are decorated with themed areas, such as exotic landscapes, futuristic scenes or traditional Japanese elements. They usually include jacuzzis, large beds, mysterious lighting, large TVs with erotic films, video games as well as personal care items or even sexual aids. At the reception, the visitor usually has no contact with the staff and the reservation is made either by covering the curtain or via a machine. Check-out is also automated. The stressful thing about the whole project – apart from the fact that the decoration of the rooms is on the verge of kitsch or even scary – is that the door to the rooms is locked upon entry and is only unlocked by paying the time fee at the special machine, which only accepts cash! I wonder in case of an emergency, such as an earthquake that is frequent in the country, how anyone can “escape”! These accommodations may not be a common choice for tourists, but we found them practical, comfortable and affordable.
Communicatiom
The Japanese, despite their education, know very little English and are unable to communicate even with meaning. Fortunately, the use of Google Translate facilitates communication and also helps in understanding the signs which are usually only in Japanese.
Food
Japanese cuisine is famous for its simplicity, the freshness of its ingredients and the harmony of its flavors. It is based on rice, fish, seafood and vegetables, while emphasizing the aesthetics and subtlety of its flavors, with sushi being a typical example. However, Japanese cuisine is not only about sushi, it is not even the dominant type of food. Other popular dishes are ramen, which combines noodles with broths and a variety of ingredients, or tempura, which is fried vegetables or seafood in a light batter. Sashimi, which consists of fresh pieces of raw fish, and traditional bento, small meals in boxes, embody the philosophy of balance and moderation. Japanese cuisine has a variety of flavors that are complemented by soy sauce, spicy wasabi and mirin, which accompany the dishes, offering a special and rich gastronomic experience.
In Japanese cuisine, although seafood is the mainstay, meat also plays an important role, especially in modern culinary offerings. One of the most famous types of meat is wagyu, Japanese beef, which stands out for its excellent texture and noticeable fat, giving it a rich and tender flavor. The most exquisite and expensive is the famous Kobe beef.
Chicken is also used in various traditional dishes, such as yakitori, where marinated pieces of chicken are grilled in small strips. Pork is popular in tonkatsu, which is a deep-fried breaded fillet served with cabbage and sauces. In Japanese cuisine, meat is not usually used in large quantities, but is part of a balanced composition, and is often served in strips that are grilled by the customer himself on a stove on his table, as is Korean beef.
Restaurants, like any other place in Japan, are limited in space. This means that they accommodate only a few customers at a time and there is a waiting time with seating outside the store.
The “planet” of the rising sun.
November 2023, April 2024
No matter how much one says about Japan, it will never be enough to describe this strange, mysterious, diverse, and enchanting country. Even adjectives are scarce to describe it.
๐ Tokyo
A visitor’s first contact with Japanese culture begins with the subway, which is the most common and practical way of transportation. The network is huge, with 286 stations and although it is not the largest in the world, it is one of the busiest, with over 5 million passengers daily. One would expect in such a modern country, the subway to be friendly to passengers and especially to people with disabilities. However, elevators and escalators are hard to find. The above-ground and underground route from Haneda Airport is nothing new, especially if one has previous experience of subways in other Asian megacities such as Beijing or Seoul. However, leaving the destination station, I am left with my mouth open. My partner, who has visited the country in the past, chose the Shinjuku area for our stay, perhaps the most impressive in Tokyo.
A futuristic dream unfolds before my eyes, glass skyscrapers rise all around and I walk blindly as my gaze searches with curiosity for the height of these gigantic buildings. An equally gigantic figure of Godzilla emerges from the Shinjuku Toto building. Crowds of people patiently wait for the traffic light to turn green to pour into the crossings. Citizens, although in a hurry, never violate the traffic code. I want to enjoy this pandemonium of images, but carrying luggage discourages me.
We arrive safely at the accommodation, which is a capsule hotel. I had some reservations about the comfort, privacy and freedom of movement in this type of accommodation, but I was pleasantly surprised. Capsule rooms are not necessarily the white, narrow and claustrophobic chambers that we have seen in photos. This particular accommodation is a hostel, where the bunk beds are separated by wooden boards to ensure privacy and at the same time has decor and usability as a library.
The Shinjuku area, in the heart of Tokyo, is one of the cityโs busiest and most dynamic neighborhoods, combining modern urban lifestyle with traditional Japanese elements. Surrounded by skyscrapers, shopping malls, impressive lights and nightlife, Shinjuku is the epicenter of Tokyo
The neighborhood is also home to Shinjuku subway station, the busiest train station in the world, which serves millions of passengers daily.
In Shinjuku, one can find both the modern and traditional sides of Japan. For example, in Kabukicho, Tokyoโs famous โRed Light Districtโ, there are dozens of bars, karaoke, restaurants and other entertainment options. Kabukicho is famous not only for its nightlife, but also for its abundance of performances, interactive shows, etc.
For nature lovers and those who love peace and quiet, Shinjuku Gyoen is a large national park with lush gardens, lakes and flowering trees, which offer an oasis of peace in the busy city. The garden is particularly popular in spring, during the cherry blossom season.
The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building skyscraper is also located in the Shinjuku area. On the top floor there are observation decks that offer panoramic views of all of Tokyo and, on a clear day, even Mount Fuji.
Golden Gai is a small but famous district in Shinjuku, with narrow streets and traditional, tiny bars. With a history dating back to the post-war years, Golden Gai consists of six small streets, where around 200 small bars and taverns are located. Each bar has its own unique character and can usually accommodate just 5-10 people, creating a particularly warm and friendly atmosphere.
Unlike the modern and trendy bars of Tokyo, Golden Gai remains true to the past, recalling another era, when Shinjuku was a haven for artists, writers and intellectuals.
The bars often have themed decorations related to cinema, literature, music and art. Although some bars have an entrance fee, visitors enjoy discovering this authentic side of Japanese nightlife.
But the Japanese capital has so many other points of interest that even if someone dedicated months to exploring it, they would not be enough.
Shibuya Crossing is one of the most photographed in the world and a symbol of Tokyoโs busy rhythm. Every time the pedestrian light turns green, a โriverโ of people pours out in an almost choreographic rhythm. Here is also the statue of Hachiko, the faithful dog who waited for his owner for years, where visitors line up to touch it and have their photos taken with it.
In the traditional Asakusa district is the Senso-ji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo. The streets around the temple, such as Nakamise-dori, are full of shops selling souvenirs and Japanese delicacies, while the crowds are stifling.
Akihabara is considered the โMeccaโ for fans of anime, manga and technology. It is filled with electronics stores, arcades and shops selling figurines, toys and comics.
Ginza is Tokyoโs upscale shopping district. With designer fashion stores, galleries and restaurants, it is a shopping paradise.
Tokyo Tower, inspired by the Eiffel Tower, is one of the city’s iconic landmarks, while Tokyo Skytree is one of the tallest skyscrapers in the world, with visitor floors offering panoramic views of dizzying heights.
Harajuku is the heart of youth fashion and culture in Tokyo, and Takeshita Street is filled with fashion shops and cafes, where you can discover the eccentric trends.
Tsukiji market was Tokyo’s old fish market, famous for its morning tuna auctions. Today, the main market has moved to Toyosu, but Tsukiji continues to offer traditional products and food and is very popular with visitors.
Roppongi is another area with nightlife and art galleries, with Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown hosting art exhibitions, shopping malls and upscale restaurants.
Ueno Park is famous for its museums, such as the Tokyo National Museum. In spring, the park is ideal for hanami, viewing cherry blossoms.
Departing from Tokyo, we decide to take our first road trip in the country and rent a small car to explore the Japanese Alps and beyond.
The cost is not particularly high for the country, although the delivery of the vehicle to another city has a surcharge based on the kilometer distance. The rental process is relatively simple despite the terms of the contract in Katakana & kanji. Driving is on the left and involves some difficulties. The Japanese are exemplary drivers and follow the rules to the letter. However, this means that the visitor-driver must also respect the rules, get used to the complexity of the road network, adapt to the narrow streets of some cities and certainly not break the law. We didn’t encounter any problems both times we rented a vehicle, except for cyclists and intersections, which don’t have a right turn signal, which requires attention. Parking is of course only available in special areas with automatic payment.
๐๏ธ Japanese Alps
We leave Tokyo behind and take to the road with its labyrinthine level bridges next to skyscrapers and lights, for a journey into Japanese nature.
After a few hours we reach the Five Lakes area and take a hike on Lake Saiko. A path leads to a Shinto shrine and a picturesque tourist sailboat sails on the calm waters of the lake. Mount Fuji has not yet been revealed. Its view is never guaranteed, the weather should be favorable and the mountain should not be covered with clouds.
We continue exploring the neighboring villages. When Fuji with its snow-capped peak finally appears in our field of vision, an exclamation of awe is spontaneously expressed by both of us. Fujiyoshida is a town at the foot of Fuji, which offers an interesting perspective of the mountain, with the city buildings and elements of the urban fabric in the foreground through a traditional โgateโ. With the light of the west it was interesting to photograph. The Kana-dorii Gate was built to invite the devotees of Mount Fuji to the city and to mark the โborderโ between earthly life and the spiritual world. It was originally built in 1788, but was damaged by natural disasters over the years and has been rebuilt many times, until its current form dates back to 1957. It is a landmark of the city of Fujiyoshida, measuring approximately 10 meters high and 8 meters wide.
Our accommodation will be in a simple accommodation with futon mattresses and a communal onsen, near Lake Saiko.
๐ป Chureito Pagoda
The Chureito Pagoda, in complete harmony with the natural landscape, requires climbing many steps, but the view compensates for the breathlessness.
Kลyล is the Japanese word for the red leaves of autumn. It is a magical experience, perhaps more impressive than the cherry blossoms in spring (sakura), as the maple leaves – which abound in the country – take on shades of flashy red, orange and gold.
The white, sacred Mount Fuji looms imposingly behind the red pagoda and the red foliage, the image is the most typical postcard of Japan.
๐ Kawaguchiko
We descend towards Lake Kawaguchiko, the 2nd largest of the Five Fuji Lakes, a popular tourist destination with stunning views of Mount Fuji that creates an “inverted reflection” in the calm waters of the lake, with wild ducks and boats.
๐ฒ Narai-juku
Leaving the Kawaguchiko area, we drive north along the old Nakasendo trade route, and stop at Narai-juku, one of the best-preserved traditional stations on the route.
The village stretches along a unique road, with Edo-era wooden houses lined up side by side. Itโs quiet, with few visitors on weekdays. Itโs like stepping into a samurai movie set.
Autumn adds a special color, with the trees turning red over the rooftops and the surrounding mountains. We walk the length of the road (about 1 km), with short stops at traditional shops selling woodcarvings, souvenirs and local sweets.
The street shops sell gohei mochi, grilled rice on a stick spread with sweet walnut sauce.
Narai-juku offers some of the most traditional images of the trip.
โ๏ธ Shirakawa-go
The next stop is Shirakawa-go, one of the most recognizable villages in Japan, known for its characteristic gassho-zukuri houses, wooden, with sharp, thatched roofs designed to withstand the winter snow.
The route passes through mountains covered in autumn color and the atmosphere is cool with a thin mist.
We leave the vehicle in the central parking lot (for a fee), and walk through the village. The landscape is particularly picturesque, with houses over 200 years old, a river with wooden bridges, orchards, and trees with red and golden leaves everywhere. Despite being popular, it is not very crowded.
At the viewpoint, we enjoy a panoramic view of Shirakawa-go from above. We take a tea break in one of the few shophouses in the village, and visit another traditional house that is open to the public. The interior is simple, with old utensils, tatami rooms and the open attic with the system for drying silk. Living conditions could be very cold in winter.
๐๏ธ Takayama & Kanazawa
Takayama is about 2 hours away. It doesn’t have any impressive sights, but it has a well-preserved old town, with wooden houses, shops and traditional restaurants, offering the experience of everyday life in the Japanese countryside. We will spend the night in a nice hostel.
๐ง๏ธ Kanazawa
Kanazawa welcomed us with torrential rain that greatly limited our freedom of exploration and we were forced to explore its narrow, traditional streets by car. The highlight of Kanazawa is the food. At Omicho Market, the city’s central fish market, we found a wide variety of seafood, tuna, uni (sea urchin), and oysters.
๐๏ธ Nagano
It is late November and the weather is starting to change in mountainous Japan. We continue, heading to Jigokudani Monkey Park, the valley of the snow monkeys. As we approach the Yamanouchi region by car, it starts to snow. How unexpectedly ideal weather for this destination! But it is starting to snow on the road and I am worried about the vehicle’s ability to handle icy roads.
We reach a point where it starts to sculpt quite a bit and we leave the car on the side of the road. We start the hike to the park from a nearby trail that the map shows, a route of about 30-40 minutes through the forest. The snow is falling lightly, but it is enough to make the landscape winter dreamlike.
Arriving at the park, the scenery is unique, we are lucky because the monkeys are not always there, except when they want to take a bath. It is a rare phenomenon to see wild animals enjoying hot springs, it is an experience worth the effort, especially at this time of year, when the snow starts to fall. Steam from the hot waters, stones sprinkled with snow, and monkeys – Japanese macaques – move freely in the space. Some are in the thermal lake, their fur wet, relaxed, indifferent to the presence of people.
The atmosphere is calm. There were no fences or restrictions, the monkeys move around us and observe us with the same curiosity that we observe them. There are few visitors, mostly Japanese. As we leave, the snow has stopped falling.
In the evening, in the city of Nagano there is heavy snowfall, which does not allow movement beyond the pub of the hostel where we are staying, but out on the street the picture is magical.
The next day dawns sunny, with snow still on the roofs, trees and flower beds.
Zenko-ji Temple is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist temples in Japan.
The main road leading to the temple is paved, filled with small shops selling traditional sweets, offerings and amulets.
The entrance to the main temple is impressive, wooden, with huge gates and the statue of Binzuru, one of the Buddha’s followers and one of the four arhats, the disciples who achieved enlightenment during the Buddha’s lifetime.
We enjoy the tranquility and the beautiful, snowy surrounding garden.
๐ Hiroshima & Miyajimaย
From Nagano we take the shinkansen (bullet train), with a connection in Nagoya, and continue to Hiroshima. The train travels at a speed of up to 300 km/h and the journey takes a few hours. The bullet train is very modern and comfortable, but has limited space for large luggage. As we pass through the provinces of central and western Japan, the view from the window alternates, with mountains, cities, rivers, in their autumn colors.
Hiroshima is a city that is modern and clean, but it is marked by a heavy memory that does not let you forget it.
The atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima on the morning of August 6, 1945, during World War II. It was the first time in history that a nuclear weapon was used in warfare.
The bomb was codenamed โLittle Boyโ and was dropped by the American bomber Enola Gay. It exploded about 600 meters above the ground, almost over the center of the city. The temperature at ground zero instantly reached 4,000ยฐC, and the explosion leveled almost everything within a 2-kilometer radius.
It is estimated that over 70,000 people were killed immediately. In the following months and years, the number exceeded 140,000, due to burns, injuries, and radioactive complications. Many of the survivors (known as hibakusha) suffered lifelong effects from the effects of radiation, physically, mentally and socially.
The bombing of Hiroshima and a few days later of Nagasaki, led to the surrender of Japan and the end of World War II. But it also opened a new, dark chapter in the history of humanity: the era of nuclear weapons.
Hiroshima today is a city of peace. The Peace Memorial Park and museum aim not only to honor the victims, but also to promote nuclear disarmament and awareness of what war means on a human level.
The Atomic Bomb Dome is an emblematic building, the only one in the area that was not leveled, because it was located almost under the epicenter of the explosion and was not much affected by the shock wave. It has remained like this, skeletal, silent, threatening, right at the point of destruction. It is located next to the river, in a surrounding area with greenery and pedestrian streets, but the feeling is creepy.
Directly opposite is the Peace Memorial Museum, an extremely well-designed but very emotionally harsh space. The exhibitions present the events and their effects in a moving way, with photographs, objects, personal testimonies, letters, half-burnt clothes, toys and everyday objects found at the site of the explosion. The tour takes several hours and is not a โpleasantโ visit, but necessary, to understand what the phrase โnever againโ means.
Also outside is the Cenotaph, the commemorative arch with the list of all the victims, and the Eternal Flame that will burn until the last nuclear weapon is eliminated from the Earth.
Also interesting is a visit to Hiroshima Castle, which has been reconstructed after the war. It is not one of the most impressive in Japan, but it shows the feudal history of the region and its history before the disaster.
Modern Hiroshima, in addition to being a pleasant, calm city, also has a special gastronomic interest.
Okonomiyaki is one of the most beloved and traditional Japanese street foods, particularly widespread in Hiroshima and Osaka. It is a type of savory pancake that is prepared on a red-hot table-fire in front of the customer. It is an imaginative recipe that was invented after the war using the few ingredients that were available during this difficult time. It has a base of dough and a filling with cabbage, noodles and various ingredients that the customer desires (okonomi means โwhatever you likeโ). In restaurants and small stalls, okonomiyaki is baked on special hot plates and is often served with shrimp or pork, sauces and mayonnaise, offering a unique taste experience. There is an informal competition between Hiroshima and Osaka for the best okonomiyaki recipe.
โฉ๏ธ Miyajima
From Hiroshima, Miyajima is easy to reach by train or tram to Miyajimaguchi station and from there a 10-minute boat ride to the island. As you approach, the Torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine stands out, โfloatingโ on the water, an iconic image of Japan. Depending on the tide, the Torii gate is in the water, while at low tide you can walk to its base.
The island is small but very special. The streets near the port have tourist shops, traditional sweets (such as momiji manju – maple leaf-shaped cakes). Many deer roam freely and are friendly and common to the world, but they try to steal and eat paper objects from visitors if they are not careful.
Itsukushima Shrine is built on wooden stilts in the sea, while the Buddhist Daisho-in is a little further up, at the foot of Mount Misen, which can be reached by cable car.
Local oysters are the island’s trademark. Grilled, fried, or with noodles, they are offered in small restaurants or by hand.
Miyajima is not very large, but it has a vibe and is ideal for a day trip.
โจ๏ธ Beppu. The city of hot springs
From Hiroshima we arrive in Beppu by bus, after a route with beautiful views of the Kyushu coast. The city is known for its hot springs (onsen) and the characteristic steam that rises from the ground.
We visit some of the so-called โHells of Beppuโ (Jigoku), hot springs with bright colors and different minerals โ some red, some blue, some white. Although they are not intended for bathing, they are impressive.
For relaxation, we take a bus and walk to Tsurunoyu onsen, hot springs that are free in nature. These baths, unlike others, are mixed and while men are naked, women are required to wear swimsuits. At the time we went, there was only one woman who was leaving and informed us, and there were signs. K decided not to enter the onsen. The men present are all elderly. As we leave, a patron offers to drive us to town. With his limited English, he tells us, laughing, how three French women the previous week did not understand the rules and entered the onsen naked.
By bus, we go to Lake Kinrin, in a magically calm natural environment. Beppu is an ideal place to relax and get to know a small Japanese town.
๐ฏ Himeji. The imposing castle
Next stop, Himeji. Himeji Castle, also known as โthe white heronโ, is perhaps the most well-preserved and imposing in Japan. We visited it on a clear day and its image, with its white walls and flat tiled roofs, is truly impressive.
๐ Yoshino – Koya San
From Kyoto and before exploring the city, we rent a car again to tour the beautiful provincial spots in the surrounding area.
Yoshino, best known for its cherry blossoms in spring, is equally impressive in autumn. By late November, the forests of Mount Yoshinoyama are already turning shades of red and gold. The village is spread out along a narrow road that climbs the mountain, lined with traditional wooden houses, small inns and shops selling local products. The atmosphere is quiet, more โprovincialโ, without the touristy feel of other areas.
Kinpusen-ji Temple, the most important temple in the area and a center of Shugendo Buddhism. The building is impressive, made entirely of wood, and offers views of the mountain and surrounding villages
Koya-san. Monastic tranquility
Koya-san, one of the most sacred places in Japan. The road is mountainous and narrow, but the route is beautiful, with autumn colors and dense forests.
Koya-san is an entire mountain village-monastery, the center of Shingon Buddhism. We visited Kongobu-ji, the main temple, and Okuno-in, the large cemetery in the forest. Hiking among the graves in the cedars, up to the temple where Kobo Daishi’s grave is located, is a truly special experience.
There is the possibility of staying overnight in a shukubo (monastery accommodation), with a simple shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) dinner and a morning prayer ceremony. We had not prepared for this and so we are forced to look for affordable accommodation in the area. Finally we find a deserted and terrifying half-board love hotel in the forest. We are undecided about which room to choose, one has Mickey Mouse decorations, another with a science fiction theme. They are all tacky and reminiscent of a thriller movie, but they are spacious. Fortunately, I understand the mechanism on the doors and we don’t get stuck inside. I put the suitcase in, check the room and if we don’t like it, we go to the next one. But this way, when we leave, the room locks and becomes unusable for the whole night. Finally we choose a room and a little later a caretaker with a quasi-modo look appears through a slot in the door trying to explain something to us. Needless to say, we were terrified.
โฉ๏ธ Kyoto. Tradition and modernization
Kyoto is one of the most important stops on a trip to Japan, and certainly one of the most memorable. After days in smaller towns and mountains, the sights of our city seem to be suffocating with visitors but their charm remains strong. It is a city where the old and the new coexist, with modern streets and modern houses just a few meters away from centuries-old temples.
Autumn makes it even more special. The parks, temples and streets are full of red and gold leaves, adding to the magic of the city.
We start early in the morning with Fushimi Inari Taisha, one of the most recognizable temples in Japan. The endless orange torii gates form a path that climbs the mountain. Although it is always crowded, our morning visit completely avoided it and the feeling of walking through the gates, in the forest, is unique.
We continue with the great temples and gardens of Kyoto. Kinkaku-ji (Golden Temple), with the building reflected in the lake, is truly impressive. Ninna-ji and Byodoin in Uji, with a quieter atmosphere, To-ji Temple with its five-story pagoda.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, is also worth seeing very early in the morning, before it fills with crowds of visitors. Next door is Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple, a smaller and less well-known temple, but full of stone statues with funny expressions.
In the afternoon in Gion, the old geisha neighborhood, we walked through the narrow streets and were lucky enough to meet two geishas. Discreetly, as their photography is not returned, I captured them from a distance, earning a nod of approval.
Kiyomizu-dera is a large temple built on a hill, with a wooden platform that offers a view of all of Kyoto. The red leaves and the corresponding night lighting, especially at this time of year, create an unreal spectacle.
Nishiki Market is one of Kyoto’s most characteristic destinations and one of the places that reveals street gastronomy. It is located in the center, a few minutes from Shijo-dori, and stretches along an arcade about 400 meters long, full of small shops and stalls.
They also call it โKyotoโs cuisineโ because you can find almost everything, fresh fish and seafood, pickles, roasted chestnuts, dried seaweed, matcha, alcohol and small delicacies eaten on the spot.
Kyoto takes time. It is not a city that can be exhausted in two days. Although it is touristy, it does not lose its identity. It is the city that best captures the essence of Japan with simplicity and respect for tradition.
Autumn makes Kyoto unique. The parks and temples are filled with red and orange leaves. Although it is still quite crowded, it is a preferable season than spring.
๐ฆ Nara. Temples and deers
From Kyoto we take a day trip to Nara, which is about a 45-minute train ride away. It is one of the most popular day trips from Kyoto.
Nara was the first permanent capital of Japan and is still full of ancient temples and historic buildings. The first thing that greets you, however, is not the monuments, but the deer. They roam freely in Nara Park, among visitors, and are considered sacred according to Shinto tradition. They are friendly and a little persistent, especially if you hold the special โdeer crackersโ that are sold everywhere.
Moving towards the interior of the park, the landscape becomes calmer. The paths lead to Todai-ji Temple, one of the most impressive temples in Japan. Its central building, the Daibutsuden, is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world and houses the Great Buddha (Daibutsu), a huge bronze statue that is 15 meters high. The scale of the place is truly impressive.
๐ Osaka
Last stop, Osaka. After weeks of temples and tranquility, the city is the opposite, lively, bustling and less than clean by Japanese standards.
The Dotonbori area is the epicenter, with neon lights, people everywhere, and food on every corner. The specialties here are takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki, the two most famous dishes of the city.
Osaka Castle is just as impressive as Himeji, especially at this time when it is illuminated in similar pink tones. The castle was built in 1583 and was designed as a fortress and a symbol of power. During its history, it suffered damage and has been rebuilt several times. The current one is a 20th century reconstruction and operates as a museum.
Shinsekai is an older neighborhood of Osaka that was created in the early 20th century. It has a more โoldโ feel to the city with cheap restaurants, small shops and food stalls. The Tsutenkaku Tower, which is reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower, is one of the symbols of the area.
Shinsaibashi is one of the most popular shopping, dining and nightlife districts in central Osaka. It consists of a covered shopping street full of shops of all kinds: fashion, luxury goods, small boutiques, restaurants, cafes, etc. Very close is the Amerikamura (America Village) area, which is younger, with more indie / hip style, small shops, cafes and nightlife.
Umeda Sky Building is one of the most impressive skyscrapers in Osaka. These are twin 40-story towers, connected by glass bridges. They are about 173 meters high and the observation deck on the top floor offers an impressive 3600 view of the city.
Epilogue
After a whole month of traveling, crossing the country from Tokyo to Osaka, my first trip to Japan left me with the feeling of an experience that does not finish with the return flight. It is a destination that impresses not only with images, but mainly with its general mentality.
From the first lights of Tokyo and the quiet lakes of Kawaguchiko, to the temples of Kyoto and the mountains of Koya-san, each stop had its own character. Japan is a puzzle of contrasts, with traditional wooden houses next to skyscrapers, Buddhist temples in modern neighborhoods, absolute silence in a park and a few meters away the hum of a busy intersection.
What remains most are not the sights, but the small moments, the kindness but also the formality of the locals, the punctuality of the trains, the way the Japanese respect the space and time of others. A trip to Japan is not just a tour of a country, it is an introduction to a way of life.
Autumn, with the red leaves painting temples and parks, added its own atmosphere.
As you leave, you realize that Japan is not just a destination you โsawโ. It is a place you feel, with a consistency and simplicity that you hardly find elsewhere, that teaches you about patience, respect and dedication to organization.
ยฉAlexandros Tsoutis
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