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Kazakhstan
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Kazakhstan is the largest country in Central Asia and the ninth largest in the world by area. This vast country – a former member of the USSR – with a population of 20 million and an area of โโ2.7 million km2, is one of the most sparsely populated in the world. The country is landlocked – it has no access to the sea – but is washed by the Caspian Sea, which is the largest lake on earth. Endless steppes, desert areas, alpine mountains in the south, salt lakes and urban oases such as Astana (formerly Nur-Sultan) and Almaty. make up this place. Although rich in natural resources such as oil, natural gas, uranium, large parts of the population still live far from the opportunities of urban centers. Vast, multiethnic and strategically located between Russia, China and the Caspian Sea, it is one of the lesser-known but most important geopolitical crossroads of the former Soviet Union.
The name โKazakhstanโ comes from the word โKazakhโ (meaning โfree manโ or โnomeโ) and the Persian suffix โ-stanโ, meaning โcountryโ. It is the โland of the freeโ, a reference to the nomadic origins of the Kazakh people.
Historically, Kazakhstan has been a field of movement and coexistence for centuries between Turkic and Mongolian tribes. In the 15th century, the first independent Kazakh Khanate appeared, while in the 18th century, annexation and subjugation by the Russian Empire began. In the 20th century, as a Soviet republic, it suffered mass population displacement, forced mergers of private farmland into state-controlled collective farms (kolkhoz), and even nuclear testing. Independence came in 1991, along with profound social and political transformations.
Kazakhstan was the last Soviet republic to declare its independence. Since then, it has been dominated by strongmen, led by Nursultan Nazarbayev, who ruled for nearly 30 years. Political stability is superficial, with sporadic protests, censorship, and limited freedoms, despite a pro-Western foreign policy stance. Today, Kazakhstan struggles to balance Russian influence, cooperation with China, and Western investment.
Despite the modernization of cities, nomadic traditions remain strong in rural areas. Kazakhs honor horses as a cultural symbol and celebrate them with traditional ceremonies, such as Nauryz (the spring festival), and hospitality in yurts – circular tents – remains an active symbol of identity, especially during holidays and festivals.
Kazakhstan is a state that oscillates between tradition and modernization, a part of Central Asia that is moving towards the future at its own pace.
People
Kazakhs are proud, hospitable and discreet. They are not people who express themselves easily, but when the ice is broken, they treat you like a guest. The concept of hospitality stems from the nomadic tradition and includes tea with milk, bread, dried cheese and, when the occasion allows, horse meat, a sign of respect for the guest.
In the villages, life follows a seasonal rhythm. The older ones have lived through the Soviet era and the transitional period, while the younger ones look to the future without abandoning their roots. Many Kazakhs are bilingual (Russian and Kazakh), with a growing interest in English, especially in the cities.
In the markets, on buses or at stops, people are polite but reserved. They don’t talk much, but they observe. If you need help, they will give it to you simply, without many words.
The majority of Kazakhs are Sunni Muslims, but religion is not always evident in everyday life. Traditional Islamic practices are often combined with older, shamanic customs, especially in rural communities.
Horse racing, horse games, and folk songs (dombyra) are parts of a tradition that is proudly preserved.
Places
Kazakhstan is not suitable for fast travel. The distances are great, the landscapes seem empty.
In the south, Turkestan and Shymkent preserve monuments of the Islamic world and the Silk Road era. The tomb of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an example of the cultural significance of the region.
Almaty, the former capital, remains the cultural center of the country. Green, youthful, with views of the Tian Shan mountains, with modern cafes, parks and ski resorts. In contrast, Astana (which temporarily changed its name to Nur-Sultan) is the new, ultra-modern capital, built in the middle of the steppe, with futuristic architecture, glass buildings and wide boulevards.
Lake Kaindy with its submerged fir trees, the Charyn gorges, the deserts of Mangistau, and the Aral Sea, which is on the verge of drying up, are examples of the country’s natural wealth.
The yurt, the tent of the nomads, remains a cultural symbol. It is used at festivals, weddings and even as a tourist accommodation.
The heart of the steppe
July 2024
Kazakhstan, isolated in the heart of Central Asia, is not a particularly popular tourist destination. Distances in Kazakhstan are vast and domestic flights are often necessary, especially to get between the main cities of Almaty – Astana – Aktau. Trains are slow but economical and safe. In the cities, there is public transport (buses, metro in Almaty), but the Yandex Go taxi app is the easiest option.
The national currency is the tenge (KZT). Cards are accepted in the cities, but in rural areas cash is required.
A solo trip to southern Kazakhstan begins, to be continued in Kyrgyzstan.ย
Kazakhstan, like Kyrgyzstan, has never been high on my list of travel destinations, and my visit to the country will not change my opinion and preference. However, my trip to these countries complements the overall experience of the “-stan” countries and the peoples of Central Asia.
Turkistan
My tour of Kazakhstan begins in the city of Turkistan, not to be confused with the country called Turkmenistan. When my flight from Abu Dhabi landed, even the flight attendant got confused and announced โWelcome to Turkmenistan,โ causing laughter from the passengers.
Leaving the airport, I take a bus that crosses a dry steppe, to the city that is sparsely built in this vast desert.
The driver, who does not speak English, thinks that I want to get off near the main attractions that are concentrated in a central point of the city. I ask him to drop me off at the next stop on the straight, wide road, so that I will be closer to my hotel. It is quite hot outside, but my luggage is light and the distance is not far. The hotel is of simple standards, despite the imposing decorations, and a single room costs about โฌ25. Despite the midday heat, I walk towards the monuments that are 1-2 kilometers away.
Turkestan is a small city of 100,000 inhabitants and is the only city in the country that was a stop on the Silk Road. It is built near the Syr Darya River (the Jaxartes River according to Alexander the Great) and has historical and cultural significance for Kazakhstan, especially because of the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, which was built by Tamerlane himself in the 12th century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The mausoleum is a key symbol of the city, attracting pilgrims and tourists. Khoja Ahmed Yasawi was a prominent Sufi mystic and philosopher, and his tomb is a revered site for Muslims in Central Asia. The city’s rich cultural heritage is further reflected in the many other historical monuments, mosques, and buildings that highlight the region’s architectural and spiritual heritage.
In 2021, Turkestan was designated the “Spiritual Capital of the Turkic World,” a recognition of its central role in the history and culture of Turkic-speaking nations. This title has elevated the city’s status as a cultural and religious center, attracting visitors and fostering deeper ties among the Turkic-speaking peoples of Central Asia.
The Mausoleum dominates the center of Turkistan and is the heart of the city, the point where the few tourists, locals and pilgrims converge. To be honest, I didnโt see another Western tourist. From afar, the huge blue-green dome seems to emerge from the steppe. Local visitors flock in families, elderly people in traditional hats, women in colorful scarves, groups of young people taking photos. The mausoleum is imposing, although poorer than those in Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and Iran. The walls are built of ceramic bricks, the domes are lined with turquoise tiles and the elaborate decoration of Arabic engraved inscriptions shimmers in the light. Inside is Yasawi’s tomb, covered with a marble cover, and around it are small rooms that once served as prayer and study spaces.
Right next to the Mausoleum is another impressive building called the Rabia Sultan Begum Mausoleum, which is a much smaller mausoleum but quite impressive.
Around the mausoleum, a few Bactrian camels wait patiently for visitors to ride them for a short ride in the desert and take photos. Their owners are local men in turbans, and the animals look well-fed and calm. A small bazaar with souvenirs and local fabrics and handicrafts is also located next to the mausoleum.
Nearby is the renovated caravanserai area, a modern complex that combines historical reference and tourist exploitation. The truth is that it has been modernized so much that it has lost its historical value. Inside the mall, there are shops, cafes, small exhibitions and an artificial elongated lake with fountains and bridges, located in the center. At night it is illuminated with bright colors and attracts families and young people.
In the large, open square, surrounded by traditional and modern buildings, the Samruk Flying Theater stands out, a building that resembles a golden egg in a bird’s nest or, at first glance, a hamburger. Around there are a few cafes and restaurants with outdoor tables, where I will satisfy my hunger with a plate of plov, one of the most characteristic dishes of Central Asia and especially Uzbekistan. It is a dish with rice, meat (usually lamb or beef), carrots and onion, which are cooked together in a large, heavy cauldron and the ingredients are slowly sautรฉed until they acquire an intense aroma.
Apart from the central monuments, the city doesn’t have much to show off and in another day I’ll exhaust my walks around.
Shymkent
I open Yandex Go, the most popular taxi app in Central Asia, to go to Shymkent. The distance is about 170 kilometers, about two hours by car, and the cost is less than โฌ14.
The taxi is a Lada that is not the most modern on the road but looks well-maintained. Leaving the city, the landscape opens up. Endless steppe spreads out around, the road is almost straight, with minimal traffic. From time to time, we pass small gas stations, canteens with signs in Russian, remnants of another era.
Just before Shymkent, the landscape begins to thicken. Factories, low apartment buildings, and a sense of more urban activity after the silence of the steppe. Arriving in Shymkent, the first impression is the difference in pace compared to Turkistan. It is the 3rd most populous city in the country with 1 million inhabitants, gray, densely built, with apartment buildings, shopping malls and more traffic on the streets.
The taxi drops me off outside an impressive mosque. The Sheikh Khalifa Mosque, also known as the Al Nahyan Mosque or the Central Mosque, is a religious landmark in Shymkent as it is the largest mosque in the entire South Kazakhstan region. It was built with the sponsorship of the President of the United Arab Emirates, Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan.
I continue with a walk to Qyrgy Bazar, the largest and most vibrant market in the city, a place where everyday life and traditions meet. The feeling of the crowd overwhelms me as soon as I enter, stalls full of fresh fruits, vegetables, spices, nuts, sweets and local snacks. The vendors between the stalls, shout prices, negotiate, dressed in traditional hats, while the women wear brightly colored scarves.. The presence of a Western visitor is probably not that frequent. On the upper floor there is a large restaurant where I will rest and enjoy local flavors.
In the center of Shymkent, there is Abay Park, a place of memory of the battles in which Kazakhstan has participated since the beginning of the 20th century, and at the same time a recreation area. It was named after the 19th century poet, Abai Qunanbaiuly, the founder of modern Kazakh literature, whose statue welcomes visitors at the main entrance.
The center of the park is crossed by the Avenue of Glory, which begins with the installation of a real fighter aircraft with marble slabs engraved with the names of the 140,000 South Kazakhstan soldiers who fought during the Great Patriotic War (1941-1945). At its end is the column with the eternal flame, and then, surrounded by other monuments, tanks, gates and arches are exhibited with free access in the wider area of โโthe park with its well-kept gardens. A young man of about 20 years old offers to show me around and practice his English. Although I am wary of asking me for money, in the end he does not accept even an orangeade. The city’s interest soon wears off, a drizzle begins to fall and I will enjoy a cold beer while waiting for over an hour for an available taxi to return to Turkestan.
Almaty
A domestic flight takes me to Almaty, where I search in vain for my AirBnB accommodation around midnight. Fortunately, at some point the landlady answers my calls and so I donโt end up homeless in the โdeserted at nightโ city.
Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan and the countryโs economic and cultural center. It has a modern urban feel, with apartment buildings, shopping malls, cafes, restaurants and a vibrant street life.
The city is built at the foot of the Zailiysky Alatau mountain range, and the mountains are visible from many points. Their view creates a constant feeling of closeness to nature, even within the urban fabric. The streets are straight and wide, with large sidewalks, squares and parks, which offer spaces for walking and relaxing.
Walking through Almaty, the first impression is a mix of different eras and architectural styles. The city combines modern buildings and apartment buildings, as well as Soviet-style buildings, which dominate the squares and main streets.
Republic Square, the cityโs central square, is surrounded by Soviet-era government buildings with bold geometric shapes and monochrome facades.
The Zenkov Monument dominates the square, and around it there are statues reminiscent of the Soviet era.
In Panfilov Park is the Zenkov Cathedral, a brightly colored wooden Orthodox church that is an ornament of the city and the largest of its kind in the country. Nearby are monuments commemorating World War II soldiers, such as the bronze sculpture of the “28 Guardsmen,” who fought selflessly in the Battle of Moscow in 1941.
In areas like Gogol Street and around the central square, Soviet-style apartment blocks with simple facades and solid volumes dominate. The city is home to statues of Lenin and other Soviet leaders, which have remained as historical landmarks, even if daily life around them is now modern and multicultural.
The Green Bazaar is one of the city’s oldest markets, selling everything from electronics to fresh produce, but it was closed for construction on the days I was there.
For panoramic views and sunsets over the city and surrounding mountains, Kok Tobe Hill is accessible by cable car. Big Almaty Lake is also located 15 kilometers away, but I did not visit it, as I chose other lakes in another region.
I did not rent a car in Kazakhstan, unlike the road trip in Kyrgyzstan. So I chose to participate in a day tour to the Charyn Gorge and the Kolsai and Kaindy lakes.
Charyn Canyon
The tour starts very early, just after 5:00am on the outskirts of Almaty where I meet the mini van with the rest of the participants. The Charyn Gorge, the โlittle Arizonaโ of Kazakhstan, is located about 200 kilometers east of Almaty, it is one of the most impressive natural destinations in Kazakhstan. The drive there takes about 3 – 4 hours, and as you get closer, the steppe gives way to hills and narrow gorges with bright red and orange colors.
The gorge stretches for about 154 kilometers, but the most popular area to visit is the โValley of Castlesโ, where impressive rocks in the shape of towers and castles form a unique landscape. The land has shades of red, brown and yellow, and the sunshine highlights the rock layers, making the landscape ideal for photos and a great place for hiking.
Kolsai lakes
The Kolsai Lakes are a series of three small mountain lakes, with green waters and cedar forests around them. The setting is reminiscent of an alpine valley, with waters that mirror the mountains and trees, creating a sense of tranquility and isolation. There are trails connecting the three lakes, suitable for gentle or more demanding hiking.
Kaindy lake
This amazing spot is located at an altitude of almost 2,000 meters and requires about 12 km of hiking or navigating a difficult road.
Most visitors choose to go by horse riding that is rented in the area, but I chose to go by marsrutka – old Soviet-style vans, at a much lower price and much more fun. However, on the way back there was no vehicle and I had to walk half the way until one passed. The journey by vehicle takes about 30-40 minutes and at first the road is smooth, but it develops into a bumpy path that you would not believe is traveled by a wheeled vehicle. The experience is truly enjoyable, the driver and passengers do not speak a word of English, the music is playing in tune and the shaking throughout the journey makes me feel like an ice cube in a shaker.
The lake was formed as a result of a large landslide caused by an earthquake in 1911, forming a natural dam. The gorge filled with water, creating the lake, which is approximately 400 meters long and 30 meters deep at its deepest point. Due to the limestone deposits, the water has a bluish-green color. On the surface, rows of semi-submerged tree trunks rise above the surface of the lake, which is why the area is often referred to as a “sunken forest”. The cold water helps preserve the tree trunks, which are covered with aquatic plants.
The view into the depths of the lake offers the best perspective of the eerie spruce trunks that rise from the turquoise waters. From some angles, they resemble ship masts, adding to the mysterious vibe of the lake.
After 14 hours on the road, I return to Almaty, where my trip to Southern Kazakhstan ends. The next day I will take a bus to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, where I will continue with a solo road trip.
Kazakhstan is a nice and economical destination, but it will hardly fascinate the traveler, according to my personal opinion.
ยฉAlexandros Tsoutis
